There's a new player in the skincare market that has people talking: NAD+. Possessing crucial DNA repair properties, NAD+ is believed to have the ability to target aging from the root, something that has never been achievable before—meaning it may have the ability to not only slow down aging, but reverse aspects of it.
So naturally, the internet has taken notice, and it's quickly become a sought-after ingredient in skincare (and healthcare as a whole). But, as is often the case with exciting new ingredients and properties, experts are quick to note that NAD+ is still in its early stages of incorporation into skincare and general health. We picked the brains of three leading dermatologists—Brendan Camp, MD, Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, and Dara Spearman, MD—to find out how this magical ingredient could shift how we live (and look). Read on for what they shared.
Meet the Experts
- Brendan Camp, MD, FAAD, is a double board-certified dermatologist in dermatology and dermatopathology at MDCS Dermatology: Medical Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery.
- Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, FAAD, is a cosmetic and medical dermatologist specializing in facial rejuvenation in Newport Beach, California, at Newport Beach Dermatology & Plastic Surgery. She is also the founder of Skincare Junkie.
- Dara Spearman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the owner of Radiant Dermatology Associates in Fort Wayne, Indiana.
What Is NAD+?
"NAD+ stands for nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide, which is a coenzyme or compound that facilitates the activity of cellular enzymes," Camp explains. "NAD+ is involved in cellular metabolism and maintaining normal cellular function. As we get older, levels of NAD+ decline, and it is hypothesized that this contributes to [age-related changes]."
"NAD+ plays a critical role in the production of cellular energy and is crucial to many metabolic processes, including DNA repair, cell defense, and longevity," adds Murphy-Rose. "NAD+ also combats oxidative stress."
NAD+ is now being considered as a possible anti-aging therapy for not only skin, but the human lifespan and healthspan overall. And naturally, as scientists and doctors find ways to restore NAD+ through different vessels (topical, ingestible, injectable, etc.), the consumer desire to get our hands on NAD+ has increased. But researchers warn that there is still far more to learn about the compound, and there is such a thing as too much.
What Are the Benefits of NAD+ for Skin?
NAD+ provides many benefits across different facets of life, from general health to skin specifically. Focusing on the latter, research suggests that a decline of NAD+ plays a role in aging, typically due to UV radiation. With this damage, the skin is unable to repair itself. Incorporating NAD+ into a routine can potentially help put a stop to those effects and slow down the aging process. "NAD+ is included in skincare products because it is thought to possess anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that promote skin cell health and function," Camp summarizes.
That said, it's important to be realistic about what a topical NAD+ can do. "Absorption capacity is significantly reduced, so don't expect increased energy levels and cognitive function, say, from topical NAD+," explains Murphy-Rose. "However, it may have skin benefits in well-formulated products with true penetration to help combat free radical damage and support cell repair."
What Skincare Item(s) Contain NAD+?
"NAD+ is unstable, unable to penetrate the [skin's moisture barrier], and is not easily bioavailable when included in skincare products," says Camp. So many NAD+ boosting skincare products include an ingredient you're probably much more familiar with: "NAD+ precursors, like niacinamide, may be included in hopes that it encourages the production of more NAD+," says Camp. "Niacinamide is considered a precursor of NAD+ because it can undergo cellular enzymatic reactions and be converted to NAD+."
For this reason, NAD+ boosting ingredients can be found in just about every kind of formula you can think of. Spearman breaks down the basics:
- Serums: Many skincare brands have formulated serums with ingredients like niacinamide to support the skin's natural NAD+ levels. These serums can improve skin tone, reduce fine lines, and offer anti-aging effects.
- Moisturizers and creams: Moisturizers may contain NAD+ to promote cellular repair and hydration while protecting the skin's natural barrier function. These creams can help retain moisture and possess anti-aging benefits to promote a more youthful complexion.
- Eye creams: Because NAD+ supports cellular regeneration, some eye creams with niacinamide or NAD+ work to target fine lines and puffiness around the eyes. They can also help with skin texture, dark circles, and wrinkle reduction by boosting cell turnover.
- Masks: Some facial masks include NAD+ precursors to give the skin an extra boost of energy, encourage skin rejuvenation, and promote brighter and smoother skin.
- Cleansers: Gentle cleansers may contain niacinamide or other NAD+ precursors to help support skin health while cleansing. These can be particularly good for maintaining a balanced and radiant complexion.
- Spot treatments: Spot treatments or acne-targeting products often contain niacinamide to help soothe inflammation, reduce the appearance of blemishes, and boost the skin's regenerative capabilities.
- Sunscreens: Certain sunscreens may contain NAD+ to support skin recovery from sun damage. These products are formulated not only to protect the skin from harmful UV rays but also to help it heal and regenerate after sun exposure.
Does NAD+ Skincare Work?
As for whether or not NAD+ skincare works, "The evidence supporting the use of NAD+ in skincare is limited and evolving," explains Camp. "Until more conclusive data is available, consider using ingredients with a well-established track record, like retinols, vitamin C, and alpha and beta-hydroxy acids."
As research continues to expand in the NAD+ category, derms and everyday skincare users alike will learn more about who can benefit most from topical usage.
Potential Side Effects
As with any new ingredient or compound, there is always the risk of potential side effects."Topical formulations may cause skin irritation or contact dermatitis," Camp explains. And the experts agree: Always spot test and consult a dermatologist or skin care professional before starting a new topical product.
The Final Takeaway
There's a lot to unpack here, but NAD+ is here to stay. As research continues to flourish in the space, NAD+ presents itself as an exciting new ingredient in the pursuit of wellness and aging, for both skin and general health. Just remember, "While buzzy, the science behind NAD+ in skincare is still developing," notes Camp.
And if you and your doctor decide NAD+ is right for you, "remember that aging is a complex process and there is no cure-all," says Murphy-Rose. "It is important to maintain a healthy lifestyle with adequate sleep, hydration, nutrition, and activity while avoiding unhealthy habits to optimize health and wellness."
